UK Spring Paddock Reset: Soil Test, Harrow, Reseed

Key takeaways

• Start your spring paddock maintenance now (late winter) by assessing damage, planning rest areas, and ordering supplies before the spring rush.

• Soil testing is the smartest first step for pasture recovery and reseeding decisions—don’t guess fertiliser or lime needs.

• Timing matters in the UK: avoid working wet ground; aim for operations when soil is “friable” (not sticky) to prevent compaction.

• Harrow, overseed, and topdress strategically, focusing on gateways, troughs, and high-traffic tracks first.

• Tidy grazing = faster recovery: consistent manure removal helps reduce “rejected” patches and supports more even grass growth.

• A simple late-winter → spring schedule keeps you on track and makes turnout safer, cleaner, and more resilient.

Introduction

Late winter in the UK can leave horse paddocks looking (and feeling) like they’ve been through a war: bare patches, churned gateways, compacted tracks, and grass that’s either struggling or growing in uneven tufts. The good news? What you do between late winter and early spring can make the biggest difference to pasture recovery and summer grazing quality. So let's get into it!

This blog is your UK paddock reset plan - basically, a practical guide to spring paddock maintenance, including soil testing, harrowing, over-seeding, and sensible pasture recovery steps that suit those varying British conditions. It’s designed to be easy to scan (for humans and search engines), and it focuses on actions that owners can start now, even before the ground fully dries.

If you’re aiming for:

• better grass growth,

• fewer muddy or poached areas next winter,

• more consistent grazing,

• and a cleaner, healthier field…

… we have your plan sorted!

Step 1: Assess

Before you fix anything, take 20 minutes to walk around your paddocks and make notes. The most effective spring paddock maintenance starts with knowing exactly what you’re dealing with.

What to look for (late winter)

• Poaching and bare patches (often around gateways, troughs, hay stations, and shelters)

• Compaction (hard ground that puddles or stays wet for days)

• Weedy areas (docks, buttercups, thistles emerging later)

• Drainage issues (standing water, repeated boggy corners)

• Manure build-up and rejected grazing patches

Quick decision: “recover” or “renovate”?

Use this rule of thumb:

• If you still have mostly grass cover with thin spots → you’re in recovery territory (over-seeding + rest + management).

• If large areas are bare or dominated by weeds → you may need partial renovation or a more intensive reseed in spring/autumn.

Tip for planning: mark problem spots on your phone (photos + notes). You’ll use these to prioritise work when conditions are right.

Step 2: Rest

Pasture recovery needs one thing above all: rest. In late winter and early spring, UK soil is often saturated, and grass roots are vulnerable. Turning horses out too early on soft ground can undo weeks of recovery in a single day.

Practical ways to rest a paddock (without stopping turnout)

• Create a sacrifice area (a smaller turnout or surfaced area used during wet spells)

• Use temporary electric fencing to rotate access and protect weak areas

• Set up tracks to reduce full-field trampling

• Keep horses off gateways by widening access or using a different entrance

Why rest pays off

Resting allows:

• grass to rebuild root systems,

• soil structure to improve naturally,

• and over-seeded areas to establish before being grazed.

If you do nothing else, do this: protect your worst 20% (gateways, trough areas, tracks). Fixing those hotspots often improves the whole paddock’s resilience. 

Step 3: Test

If you want a paddock reset that actually works, soil testing is your foundation. A crucial step we beg you not to forget! UK soils vary hugely, and applying lime or fertiliser without data can be a waste of money (or worse, can push the pasture in the wrong direction).

What a soil test tells you

A basic test can indicate:

• pH (crucial for grass growth and nutrient availability)

• key nutrients (often P, K, Mg)

• organic matter indicators (depending on the lab)

When to soil test in the UK

Late winter to early spring is a common time because it helps you plan:

• lime applications (if pH is low),

• fertiliser needs (if nutrients are depleted),

• and whether reseeding is likely to succeed.

What to do with results

• If pH is low: lime is often the biggest win for improving grass growth.

• If nutrients are low: consider a targeted fertiliser plan aligned with your grazing and cutting schedule.

• If your paddock is consistently waterlogged or compacted: focus on structure and traffic management first—fertiliser won’t fix soil damage.

(Always follow UK guidance and local agronomy advice for application rates and legal compliance, so everything is above board.)

Step 4: Repair

Once soil is starting to dry and you’re not churning it up underfoot, it’s time for targeted repair. The aim is pasture recovery, not perfection.

Gateways and high-traffic zones first

Most paddock damage happens in predictable places:

• gateways,

• troughs,

• shelters,

• feeding areas,

• and along fence lines.

Repairs that work well:

• Move feeders/hay stations regularly

• Add hardcore, mats, or a stabilisation grid in gateways (where appropriate)

• Consider a “stand-off” area for winter to protect the main grazing

Over-seed bare patches

For thin grass cover, over-seeding is often faster and cheaper than full reseeding.

• Choose a horse-suitable grass mix (hard-wearing, grazing-friendly)

• Oversow when soil temperatures rise and there’s moisture—often spring can work, but success depends on weather and ground prep

• Protect seeded areas with fencing until established

Topdress (if needed)

If you have ruts or uneven ground:

• Light topdressing can level minor damage.

• Avoid heavy works when ground is wet to prevent further compaction.

Step 5: Maintain

This is the part many owners skip, but it’s what separates “spring tidy-up” from a real paddock reset.

Why regular manure removal matters

Manure left in the field creates:

• nutrient hotspots (uneven grass growth),

• rejected grazing patches,

• and a greater parasite burden.

Consistent poo-picking supports more even grazing and cleaner pasture. If you want a more efficient routine—especially on larger paddocks—mechanical collection can help.

If it fits your set-up, consider the Paddock Blade for quicker, more consistent collection and a cleaner field. It's the top manure removal tool, thousands of farmers are using and loving nationwide.

Low-effort maintenance habits that add up

• Pick up manure frequently (ideally multiple times per week in high-use areas)

• Rotate grazing to avoid overgrazing

• Keep horses off fields during prolonged wet spells

• Mow or top later in the season to manage weeds and encourage even sward (timing dependent)

Step 6: Plan

A paddock reset is easiest when you follow a simple schedule. Here’s a UK-friendly timeline that works for most owners that you can start implementing.

Late winter (now)

• Walk the paddock and map problem areas

• Set up rest zones and a sacrifice area if needed

• Book or DIY soil testing

• Start/continue manure management

• Order seed, fencing, and repair materials early

Early spring (when ground firms up)

• Light harrowing (only if conditions suit and your pasture needs it)

• Overseed thin/bare areas and protect them

• Apply lime/fertiliser only based on soil results and guidance

• Improve traffic areas (gateways/tracks)

Mid spring onwards

• Rotate grazing and allow recovery time

• Keep on top of weeds early before they seed

• Maintain regular manure removal for cleaner, more even grazing

Frequently Asked Questions

1) When should I start spring paddock maintenance in the UK?

Start in late winter by assessing damage, planning rest areas, and organising soil tests. Physical ground work (harrowing/overseeding) should wait until soil is not waterlogged and you won’t compact it.

2) Is soil testing worth it for horse paddocks?

Yes. A soil test helps you understand pH and nutrient levels, so you can avoid wasting money on the wrong inputs and improve pasture recovery and grass growth more reliably.

3) Should I harrow my horse paddock in early spring?

It depends. Harrowing can help break up droppings and dead matter, but only do it when ground is dry enough and when your pasture condition warrants it. Avoid harrowing wet soil, as it can worsen compaction and damage.

4) Can I overseed a horse paddock in spring?

Often, yes - spring overseeding can work if there’s enough moisture and warmth for germination and you can keep horses off the area until it establishes. Results vary with weather and preparation.

5) How do I recover a poached paddock without reseeding everything?

Focus on resting the damaged areas, managing traffic (gateways/tracks), improving soil condition, and over-seeding bare patches. Regular manure removal and sensible grazing rotation support faster recovery.

TL;DR

A UK late-winter paddock reset is about doing the right things at the right time: assess damage, rest vulnerable areas, soil test before spending money, repair high-traffic zones first, overseed thin patches when ground conditions allow, and maintain consistently, especially manure removal for cleaner, more even grazing. Follow our steps now through early spring, and you’ll get stronger grass, better turnout, and a paddock that holds up far better next winter. Sounds like a win to us!